iPad case tutorial

This tutorial is for a iPad case.  I've made several of these - it is a fun, fast and easy project.

Supplies:

• Outer fabric: 15 1/2" by 21 1/2"
• Lining fabric:  17" by 23"  (note - this will be trimmed later)
• Fusible web:  2 cuts each 15 1/2" by 21 1/2"
• From either outer or lining fabric, cut binding strip 15 1/2" by 2 1/4" 
• From either outer or lining fabric, cut binding strip WOF by 2 1/4" 
• 7" strip of velcro

Prepare fabric:

1. Iron to the fusible web to the wrong side of both the lining and the outer fabric
2. Make a sandwich with fusible web pieces touching.   The right side of each outer and lining should be facing out.  

   

   Outside fabric - see the extra from the lining fabric?
   
   And now the back
   

   

   
   

3. Mark the fabric at 2 1/2" increments with a water soluble pen.
4. Sew on each of the lines (with walking foot) as well as a line at the very top and very bottom.  Remove lines by spraying with water.
   

Trim

Assemble iPad case:

Take the small binding strip, fold in half and press and attach to one edge as you would a binding.  Flip and pin and then top stitch.

 View from the lining side

  
Fold up bottom roughly 5 1/2" and test iPad in 'pocket' to make sure you are happy with it will fit.

I like this side view!

Align the top of the velcro strip roughly 3" from top of inside edge.  Center, pin and sew.  (Recommend securing the soft part of the velcro strip here and using the loops for the flap.)

With the bottom folded roughly at 5 1/2", sew a side seam on each side.

Test ipad.   You should have enough room to one side to sew a line 3/4" from stitching line.  This is to create a pocket for your stylus.    (Note that my pen is a stand in for the stylus.  I was too lazy to walk downstairs and get it for the photo!)

Test ipad again and make sure you are happy with the fit.

Take the other velcro strip and align it roughly 1/2" from top flap edge.  Pin.  With iPad in the case, fold over and make sure your velcro strips are aligned.  Sew velcro.   (Test again once sewn.)

(Optional) Round corners of flap.  (I traced a spool of thread to get a slight curve.)

Sew binding as you would for a quilt and then finish by hand.

Have a wonderful day! 

 Patty
Elm Street Quilts

Tutorial - Spiral or circular quilting

Spiral quilting gives amazing texture and movement to quilts of all shapes and sizes.  It looks a bit intimidating but it is very easy and fun to do.

To get started, you'll need a couple of things:

• a circle! I find a small dinner plate or small bowl is the perfect size to get started.  
• a non permanent fabric marking pen
• your walking foot

Take your quilt and lay it on a flat surface.   Decide where you want the center of the spiral to be.  This is a design choice so move your circle (i.e plate) around.    I like to do spirals that are not directly in the center of the quilt even if the quilt is square.

This quilt is called Doodle - see how I started the spiral in that gray x just off center?

This quilt is called Sparkle and is clearly a rectangle.  Starting the spiral off center worked great for this one as well.

First step is to baste and baste well.

Once you've decided where you want to start, take your non permanent pen - mine is a water soluble one - and trace a circle almost completely around the plate.  Leave a gap of roughly an inch.

Center your quilt under the needle at the start of your traced circle.  You want your quilt to go clockwise - which means the empty part of your circle is always to the left of your needle.

Sew on the line you drew.  Take your time, this isn't a race.  Don't worry if you don't hit the line exactly.  While you'll notice the imperfections while you sew, they will get lost in the overall design and be hard to ever find again.

Go around the circle and as you approach the one inch gap and your starting point, get started on the spiral by using the edge of your walking foot to go around again and again and again!

You are spiral quilting!!

Take your time though this process.  A bobbin is going to take you about 45 mins to empty.

  Take time to adjust the quilt and remove your basting pins as you go.

At some point in this process - whether you've started in the center or off center - you'll come to a part where your spiral goes off the edge.  Do a happy dance!

  Even though you aren't done, it will feel like suddenly you are making progress.

Each time you come off the edge, cut the threads and then start a new line of stitching continuing the spiral.

Once your spiral is all done, you need to come back and deal with that big empty circle that we left at the start.

And the view from the back

Position the quilt so that you are back at the place where you started.  This time, you will be going counter clockwise and the circle will be squeezed into that spot to the right of your needle.

It will get progressively harder to use your walking foot as you get towards the center.  Your options here are to move very, very slowly or switch to your FMQ foot.  (If you do the later, I'd suggest drawing out your spiral first.)

Other things to consider when you are quilting a large quilt on your domestic machine is to work to always keep the quilt onto the table - folding it over works.  This prevents drag and results in more consistent stitching.

A view from another angle.

I am just in love with my finished quilt Formation.  (The pattern will be available shortly.)

Even the back is fun!

Ready to give it a try?

Welcome to Elm Street Quilts!

I love to quilt and enjoy every step of the process.   I've been blogging for several years at A Stitch in Time where I record my weekly progress on my quilting journey.

Elm Street Quilts is all about sharing - tutorials and patterns - for my original work.   Glad you stopped by and hope you'll come back and visit!

Have a wonderful day! 

Patty